The Old Port, a mirror of history
In the protective shadow of the Citadel, beneath the bell tower of the church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste, the Old Port of Bastia elegantly reveals the reflections of the Tuscan buildings rising like an amphitheatre around the cove. Behind the 16th-century Genoese mole, this haven of Mediterranean authenticity preserves its timeless charm. The quays offer curious eyes the colourful façades of the houses, polished by sea winds, packed tightly together and overlooking the terraces of restaurants and cafés.
All year round, life bustles in this lively marina, where it is pleasant to linger over a drink on the quays, to the rhythm of café owners, boaters and fishermen mending their nets at dawn. This typical and deeply lively district, where yachts and multicoloured fishing boats sit side by side, invites you to stroll at every moment. On the south quay, the Mantinum, a green amphitheatre shaped like a viewpoint, forms a link between the Old Port and the Citadel, offering an unrivalled view of the Mediterranean.
The Governors’ Palace, witness of past centuries
The birth of the castello della bastia and the history of the Governors’ Palace are closely tied to the creation of Bastia, during the Genoese rule of Corsica. While the governors sat in the village of Biguglia, Leonello Lomellini decided in 1380 to build a small fortification, the bastia or castello della bastia, on a rocky promontory near the cove of Ficaghjola and the fishing marina of Portu Cardu. This fortified site, close to the shore, was intended to encourage trade and to receive reinforcements from Genoa if necessary.
The bastia had an eventful history from its creation, passing from hand to hand before being recovered by Genoa in 1437 and remaining Genoese until the French conquest. A century after its creation, the modest original tower became the governors’ residence. The palace, then the seat of the court of justice, housed the governor’s apartments, barracks for soldiers, several chapels, unsanitary prisons and cisterns for the water supply. After the French annexation in 1768, the site was abandoned and the palace successively housed the Superior Council of Corsica, the seat of the departmental Directory and troops from 1794, before being occupied by the Germans and partly destroyed.
The majestic Citadel
In the 14th century, the Genoese founded the Citadel of Bastia, when Biguglia was the capital of Corsica. However, they found that site inconvenient and exposed to danger. So, in 1380, Governor Leonello Lomellini decided to build a fort, called Castello della Bastia or Il Fortino, on a rocky spur overlooking two harbours. Today, the present Old Port, formerly called Portu Cardu, and the cove of Ficaghjola, formerly Portu Vechju, bear witness to this. In 1475, the podestà Antonio Tagliacarne began building about twenty houses, giving birth to the Terra Nova district, in contrast with Terra Vechja, which corresponds to today’s Old Port district. Nothing remains of the first fortification, but the tower of the Fortino, which gave the town its emblem, still appears on the coat of arms of Bastia.
The illustrious Sainte-Marie Cathedral
Former seat of the diocese of Mariana between 1570 and 1802, the pro-cathedral of Sainte-Marie in Bastia is a prestigious building. The ceremonies for the handover of power between governors took place there, and the bishop and the governor sat facing each other. Listed as a historic monument since 3 February 2000, it is also called Santa Maria or Santa Marì in Corsican.
The friendly Place Saint-Nicolas
A true meeting place for the people of Bastia, Place Saint-Nicolas is a space for living and relaxing where young and old mingle. Hosting various events throughout the year, it is adorned with a bandstand and holds a flea market every Sunday morning. Its name comes from a medieval chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas, near a Pisan hospital. The square also holds a war memorial and a statue of Napoleon as a Roman emperor.
The picturesque shopping streets
Immerse yourself in Corsican authenticity and Mediterranean atmosphere by strolling through the charming lanes of Bastia’s city centre. Along these narrow, cobbled streets, discover shops, artists’ studios and local craftsmen, as well as local flavours in the many restaurants and wine bars. Admire the colourful façades and wrought-iron balconies, which testify to the undeniable charm of these lanes.
The imposing church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Built between 1636 and 1666, the church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste is the largest in Corsica. Its bell towers were added in the 19th century. The interior of the sanctuary is decorated with many works of art, such as the silver tabernacle of the high altar, made by the Sienese goldsmith Gaetano Macchi, and a surprising stucco group depicting the Circumcision of Christ. The impressive “swallow’s nest” organ gallery dates from 1742 and is decorated with three paintings illustrating scenes from the life of Saint John the Baptist. The feast of Saint John, associated with the summer solstice, is celebrated with a bonfire in Bastia on the evening of 23 June, near the Citadel ramparts, beside the Old Port basin.
The moving Oratory of Sainte-Croix
During the Genoese period, Bastia was divided into two parishes: Terra Nova, dependent on the church of Sainte-Marie-de-l’Assomption, and Terra Vechja, dependent on the church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste. The brotherhood of Sainte-Croix, or Santa Croce in Corsican, was the most important in Terra Nova. Its mission was to run the neighbouring hospital, known as the Genoese hospital, for the poor, the infirm and foundlings. This building, long disused, has been converted into housing. Known since the early 15th century, the Sainte-Croix brotherhood had a chapel built, with papal authorisation, in 1542 on land belonging to the Basilica of St John Lateran in Rome. The current oratory was built in 1600, in place of the older, smaller chapel, which was destroyed. Listed as a historic monument in 1931, the Oratory of Sainte-Croix bears witness to the religious and social history of Bastia.